I interview Dan Letzring of Letiman games about being a designer and publisher.
I interview Dan Letzring of Letiman games about being a designer and publisher.
Episode 2 of The Board Game Workshop is live. You can check it out here. Also on iTunes and Stitcher.
I just started a podcast about board game design. The first episode is live now.
Website – theboardgameworkshop.com
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I design a lot of card games. They are pretty easy to prototype so I end up making a lot of prototypes. This increased volume makes any streamlining of the process quite useful.
On the card layout side I’m not really doing so well at streamlining. I don’t know or have Adobe InDesign and don’t feel like I can justify the subscription price. I use a Mac so nanDECK isn’t really an option. Paperize.io is nice and easy, but restrictive for designs that require specific layouts. I’m not familiar enough with Ruby to use Squib. JT from TheGameCrafter.com has talked about a program he has been designing that could be the solution for all of this, but it may never be released. Occasionally I’ll write a program to design my cards in Processing because it’s the only language I know, but that is rarely worth the effort.
So for the most part I design my cards super inefficiently in a graphics program, then put the image files into a 3×3 card grid in Pages to print them. Depending on how much control I need of text placement I’ll sometimes have the text as part of the image or use the image as a background and write over it in Pages. The latter makes iteration much easier. For very simple or early designs I’ll just type up cards in a Pages grid.
On the printing side I’ve been trying a few different things. I started with printing on standard copy paper and cutting the cards with an X-Acto knife and ruler. This worked alright, you could cut a stack of pretty much any size as long as you kept slicing, so it minimized the need to setup a new stack of paper. Drift could be a problem if the printing was off or if I couldn’t keep the stack from sliding. Also, I sliced my thumb open once and was pretty much done with that method. I tried a cheap rotary cutter, but it didn’t make straight lines and was useless. Working with standard copy paper meant I had to sleeve things or deal with very thin cards that are pretty transparent.
I was tired of sleeving so much paper so I started using exact index card stock (199gsm) and I bought a decent guillotine paper cutter and a corner cutter. This gave me pretty decent results with cards that could be shuffled reasonably well. Though they were still slightly transparent. Cutting consistently sized cards was easy with the paper cutter’s guide, drift was a bigger issue than when I was cutting by hand. Rounding the corners was a big improvement for shuffling. This is a good method. It works. You can improve it with better card stock and putting more money into a paper cutter.
But I hate cutting cards. I always saw perforated card stock for business cards and invitations and pretty much anything except 2.5” x 3.5” playing cards. It sure would be nice if I could just print my cards and rip them out while watching tv. No need to line things up or measure.
So we come to the reason I’m writing this post. I found a website that will make custom perforated paper, perforatedpaper.com. They offer a few paper stocks and you can customize how many sections the page is split into and how large the borders are. With the power of math I set up a page that would give me my standard 3×3 card page. I had it done on 80 lb Cover Stock (216gsm) which is slightly thicker than my previous card stock. The price drops the more you buy so I decided on 1000 sheets to test it out. With US shipping it costs about 1.5 cents per card. Which is about double what it would cost to buy regular card stock of the same quality on Amazon. So is it worth it?
The card stock itself is fine, as I said, slightly thicker than the other stuff I was using but nothing close to actual playing cards which are usually over 300gsm and have a core that adds stiffness and blocks light. The real question is if not having to cut was worth the price.
I’ve printed one prototype so far and ripping apart the cards was much faster and easier than cutting cards. It was also nice that I didn’t need a large paper cutter, so I could be doing this pretty much anywhere that had space to put finished cards and the border scraps.
The down side is that the edges have that fuzziness of perforated paper instead of a nice clean cut. This makes shuffling not quite as nice. I also didn’t leave as much room as I usually do for drift and some images go a bit over the line, but that is my fault and not the paper’s. I used 10 sheets and only had one sheet where the perforation hadn’t been fully done, so some cards had to be folded and carefully ripped. I’m not sure if this will be a large issue with the rest of the sheets or the 1 in a 1000 mistake that I caught right away.
So is it worth it? Pros: Quicker to get from print to play. Less attention needed. No need for additional cutting equipment. Consistent size. Cons: Twice the price of regular card stock. Fuzzy edges. Some pages may not be perforated fully.
If you want to save some time and don’t mind fuzzy edges and a higher price you might want to check this out. I like it. I don’t regret buying the 1000 sheets and I’ll be using them for my future prototypes for a while. I’m not sure if I will buy anymore once I run out though. I’ll see how my work flow goes over the next few months, but it might be better to just spend my money on a really nice paper cutter.
Edit: New card layout software I found for Mac. Currently in Beta. Multideck
I just posted my entries from the Button Shy wallet games contest. Print, play, and share them and let me know what you think.
The Board Game Workshop will be a show about board game design. Each episode will focus on an in progress game design and its designer. We will play the game and provide feedback.
We hope to achieve three things with this show: valuable feedback for the designer, useful design information for the audience, and increased awareness of the design community.
We would like to get your ideas on the show so we can focus on what you would most enjoy.
Please answer these 4 questions.
I started a list of useful links for game design and publishing. If you have any suggestions please let me know.
I was very excited for this game as soon as I heard the name. My wife is a McLeod and their clan seat is the Isle of Skye. So I hoped that that, along with the Scottish theme, would get her interested in playing it. That alone was enough to get me to buy it, but what I heard of the game play sounded interesting as well.
The game is a combination of auctions and tile laying. The theme and some of the game play is reminiscent of Glen More.
During setup you randomly choose 4 scoring tiles out of a possible 16. These are placed on the game board in sections labeled A, B, C, and D. You’ll score based on each tile 3 times over the 6 rounds of the game. Round one you only score A. Round 2 only B. Round 3 A and C. Round 4 B and D. Round 5 A C D. And round 6 B C D. This is probably my favorite part of the game. It adds so much variety. Not only do the tiles that show up change your goals in the game but the order they are in can really shift your strategy. Do you try to get some early points with the A tile or build up to score 3 rounds in a row from the D tile?
Each player starts with a castle tile in their territory that will give them 5 gold at the start of a round.
The game plays very easily with no complex rules or exceptions. Each player earns gold based on their territory tiles. Five for their castle and 1 more for each whiskey barrel icon on a road that connects to their castle. In later rounds players receive bonus gold for each player ahead of them on the score track.
Then each player draws 3 tiles from the surprisingly nice canvas bag and places them in front of their player screen. Players secretly choose one of their tiles to discard with their ax token and secretly set an auction price for the other 2 tiles with their money. They must put at least 1 coin at each. Discarding and setting prices is the heart of this game.
After prices are set players reveal their prices and discard choices. All the discarded tiles or put back in the bag and the first player gets to choose an opponent’s tile to buy. Players cannot use any of their gold they placed to set auction prices on tiles. If they cannot afford a tile or don’t want one they pass. When you buy a tile from a player you pay them the amount of gold they set as the price for that tile. The player you buy from gets your gold plus the gold they set as a price. So if they are after you in turn order they now have a lot more gold to buy tiles with. After everyone has passed or bought a tile the gold set for each unbought tile is put in the bank and the player gets that tile.
Turn order matters a lot here. If you are going last you can feel safer about setting higher prices on your tiles hoping someone else will buy one and you’ll have the money back before your turn. If you are going first setting high prices might not allow you to buy anything and if your opponents buy both of your tiles you’ll have some money but no tiles to place this round.
You’ll need to pay attention to what scoring tiles are happening this round, how much an opponent might want your tiles and how much you want to keep them. Setting prices too high on a tile you don’t want in hopes of making a lot of money from an opponent can backfire if they don’t feel like buying it.
After players buy tiles they have to place all of their new tiles in their territory. This is generally straightforward with each tile having three possible terrain types on each side; pasture, mountain, or water. When you place tiles their connected edges must match. Some tiles have roads on them and roads do not have to connect. Though it is usually better if they do, especially in the case of connecting whiskey barrels to your castle.
Tile placement starts off very easy. Your territory is wide open and you bought tiles with a plan of where to place them. However, as your territory grows, placing tiles gets trickier. You’ll be trying to get certain tiles to achieve the goals on the scoring tiles (which drives up the prices) and for some scoring tiles the placement matters. If you slip up you might block yourself from earning some points later in the game.
In addition to getting points every round from scoring tiles some terrain tiles have additional end of game bonuses based on having different icons in your territory (sheep, cattle, farms, boats, etc.). With the right tiles coming your way these bonus points can score a lot, and the points are doubled if you manage to complete the terrain the scroll is in.
After placement you score based on the current scoring tile(s) the first player marker moves to the left and you play another round with a different combination of scoring tiles.
After 6 rounds you score bonus scrolls and get 1 point for every 5 gold you have left. The player with the most points wins.
I enjoyed this game even before I played it, and every time I play, I like it more. The rules are very simple. The iconography is clear enough that after a few plays you don’t need to check the reference sheet for the scoring tiles.
Even though each round is the same the changing goals give them a unique feel. With the variety of scoring tiles and bonus scrolls you can try a variety of strategies.
In a game I played the other night one of the scoring tiles was 5 points for the most gold and 2 points for the second most. I decided to focus on making gold. I almost always set my tile prices low so that I wouldn’t lose any money if I got stuck with them. I bought every whiskey barrel tile I could and I was luckily always just behind on the score track so I received the maximum gold bonus. I tried to get things for other scoring tiles when I could. Which was easy once I had significantly more money than my opponents. At the end of the final round I was behind first place by a bit but I managed 8 points from all of my gold and won the game by 1 point. It was exciting. We played again immediately (always a good sign). The second game had all new scoring tiles and as a result the game had a different feel.
It plays quickly, a lot of the game is simultaneous so there isn’t much down time. It can drag if you have an AP player that can’t set their prices or decide what to buy, but that’s a problem with any game that has decisions without a timer. Overall the game is light enough that decisions aren’t stressful.
Every game is unique with the order and mix of scoring tiles. Building your territory gives you a sense of accomplishment even if you aren’t winning. The variety of ways to score and the gold bonus for being behind help make sure no one is really out of it. And even if you totally botch the game it’s short enough that you can try again soon.
I like a lot of games, and a lot of different kinds of games so I’m not good at ranking them. It’s more about what I’m in the mood for at the time. But after playing it half a dozen times Isle of Skye is certainly near the top of my list.
I haven’t gotten much work done on this design lately. After the promising but slow play test I left it for a while and recently felt like giving it an overhaul and changing the focus to more of an economic empire builder. Not sure when I’ll get around to working on it. Smaller games distract me with their ease of prototyping.
Currently I’m working on a card based civ building game and starting the Flipped blind play tests.
I’m also working on a card deck game system. It was originally going to be a dedicated trick taking game but as it developed the deck became more general and can be used for all sorts of unique variations on traditional card games.